• 8-Frame Unassembled Pine Hive Body + nails
• 10” Hive Tool – The perfect all around beekeeping tool.
• Pry and Grip Tool
• The Beetle Blaster beetle trap x6
• Assembled 9-1/8 Black Superframe x3

JBL CONTROL 1 PRO
High Performance 150-Watt Miniature Studio Monitor Speaker – Pair
$82 Amazon

Behringer Xenyx 802
Premium 8-Input 2-Bus Mixer with Xenyx Mic Preamps and British EQs
$49.99 Amazon

Pyle Home PCA2
80-Watt Stereo Mini Power Amplifier
$38.03 Amazon

I bought this tester and several disposable testers. I did multiple tests on one part of the lawn to benchmark the tester. Once I knew it was testing right, I checked different parts of the lawn.

The pH throughout the yard is fine, but I need to improve fertility. I’ll probably buy a balanced fertilizer and some weed killer.

“My favorite Mountain Lion feature, though, is one that hardly even has a visible interface. Apple is calling it “Gatekeeper”. It’s a system whereby developers can sign up for free-of-charge Apple developer IDs which they can then use to cryptographically sign their applications. If an app is found to be malware, Apple can revoke that developer’s certificate, rendering the app (along with any others from the same developer) inert on any Mac where it’s been installed. In effect, it offers all the security benefits of the App Store, except for the process of approving apps by Apple. Users have three choices which type of apps can run on Mountain Lion:

• Only those from the App Store
• Only those from the App Store or which are signed by a developer ID
• Any app, whether signed or unsigned

The default for this setting is, I say, exactly right: the one in the middle, disallowing only unsigned apps. This default setting benefits users by increasing practical security, and also benefits developers, preserving the freedom to ship whatever software they want for the Mac, with no approval process.”

From http://daringfireball.net/2012/02/mountain_lion

http://www.cymru.com/monitoring/dnssumm/

So my fix is quick and simple (and can be found all over the Internet). I only post it here so that I can easily find it in the future.

sudo grub-install /dev/sda # HDD device name
sudo update-grub

Good luck!

Initially, I wanted to insulate the walls. To do this, I would have to breach the plaster walls to blow in insulation, because I have stucco exterior walls and plaster interior walls. After some research, I learned this is a VERY BAD thing. My plan now is to insulate the attic. Here are some “before” pictures. I will post “after” pictures in a year or two, whenever the project is complete.

Pictures of the attic’s existing insulation:

At http://bobyapp.com/blog/2009/06/myths-about-insulating-old-house-walls Bob Yapp wrote:

If your goal is to continue loving your old house, make it energy efficient while keeping your costs down, then you absolutely don’t want to blow insulation into the sidewalls.

One of the top reasons for exterior paint failure, termites and structural damage to old houses is loose cellulose or fiberglass insulation blown into the sidewalls. “Hey, wait a minute Bob, if we can’t insulate the sidewalls, how can we afford to heat our old house?” That’s a valid question but you need to think of air movement in your house as if the house were a chimney. Heat loss primarily happens in an upward movement. So, I want you to insulate your attic space to an R-38 with eave ventilation. You should also friction fit craft-faced (paper faced) fiberglass batting- insulation or foam board into the box sills in your basement (the area where the beams or floor joists rest on top of the foundation). The craft face acts as a vapor barrier and should face the inside.

Most building codes today require that when a new house or addition is built in a northern climate, it must have a vapor barrier. When a new house is going up, they frame the sidewalls and install exterior sheathing. The next step is to go inside and install fiberglass, batting insulation between the 2″ x 4″ or 6″ studs. Before the drywall can be installed over this wall, 4 mil thick plastic sheeting must be laid over the insulation on the entire wall. That plastic sheeting acts as the vapor barrier.

We create warm moist air in our homes by cooking, taking showers, having plants, breathing etc. That warm, moist vapor is attracted to the exterior walls. This vapor enters the wall through hairline wall cracks, outlets, switches and window trim. In new construction, the plastic vapor barrier under the drywall stops the wet air from getting to the insulation and condensating.

In old houses with plaster walls, there is no vapor barrier under the plaster so the wet air hits the insulation and condensates. This wets down the blown-in insulation making it a wet mass at the bottom of the wall cavity creating an inviting place for termites and dry rot. Then the moisture enters the exterior sheathing and wood siding causing permanent exterior paint failure. Since the homeowner, for some “unexplained” reason, can’t keep paint on the house anymore, they call the vinyl siding salesman. This makes the problem even worse as you now have backer board (insulation board) and vinyl siding which in combination creates a vapor barrier on the outside of the wall that stops the free exchange of air, trapping more moisture.

…

If your house is drafty then tighten it up. Weather-strip your windows and doors, keep the house painted/caulked well, insulate the attic and box sills. This will stop the air infiltration, make you more comfortable and really save money on utilities.

More details:

• DRPT, Norfolk Southern and CSX are working together to coordinate work at the Petersburg Collier Connection project site.
• CSX has submitted design plans of the Petersburg Collier Connection to DRPT for review and comment for the Norfolk Southern connector track. The internal DRPT review is complete and the Agency is ready to issue a Notice To Proceed for construction.
• All grading work on the Norfolk Southern segment of the Collier Connection is complete. Subbalast and ballast has been placed, and Norfolk Southern track work is close to completion. Final track elevation adjustments will be made upon completion of the CSX connection work.